Jambo friends! WE MADE IT!! Rather than starting with all the summit details, we'll give you a day by day summary of our trek. Here goes!
Day 1: Welcome to "dry season"
We were picked up from our hotel by our guide Amani bright and early. He started to load our bags on to what appeared to be a full local bus - little did we know, the bus was filled with our entire crew! 12 porters, 2 cooks and 1 guide. So many men to get 3 little girls up one mountain!! We drove 2 hours to Kilimanjaro National Park and entered through the Machame gate ready to start our climb. As we were waiting for our crew to be ready, we met some other people starting the Machame route that day. A group of doctors from the states caught our eye, as we noticed they had brought their own PULSE OXIMETER!! Julia and Allison tried to befriend them in order to get our sats at the summit. Once the crew was ready, we began our trek with Amani. He told us it would be about 4 hours of walking, mostly uphill, through a rainforesty environment. And then came the rain. None of us were expecting this, as its currently Africa's dry season, but it poured on us for most of the walk. We finally arrived at Machame hut, which sits at 3000m above sea level (asl), and was our camping spot for the night.
Day 2: Meeting the Irish
We started the day with another 4 hour, but this time there was sun! We left the rainforest and broke into rocky terrain. Along the way, we passed a number of trekkers, including a large group of singing, boisterous Irish people. They were a group of 44, members of an Irish NGO called CONCERN doing the trek as a fundraiser. They asked us where we were from, and misheard "Canada" as "Kenya" - so for the rest of the trip, the three of us were dubbed "the Kenyans". The walk ended at Shira hut, which sits at 3800m asl. We spent the afternoon exploring our campsite - the clouds had finally cleared, and we caught our first glimpse of the Kibo peak of Mount Kilimanjaro (the one we were attempting to summit).
Day 3: Up, down, up, down. Repeat.
Today was a day for acclimatization, which means a LOT of up and down. The morning was mostly uphill, and after about 4 hours we stopped for lunch. As we ate, we heard hail start to pelt our tent. Nonetheless, we bundled up and continued upwards to the Lava Tower (4600m asl), which was the highest point we would reach that day. We spent 20 minutes there hanging out, acclimatizing, and taking pictures after the hail subsided. Then came our first significant downhill. We went for about 3 hours before we reached our campsite for the night - Barranco, sitting at 3900m asl, and at the foot of the famous Barranco Wall. Amani looked at us with a smile and said "tomorrow you climb that!". Allison was excited, Julia needed to be convinced by Amani that she would NOT fall off the wall, and Nicole was most concerned with finding a place to pee (note: at this point, we had stopped using "outhouses", and opted more often for voiding behind large trees, rocks, or anything that didn't move).
Day 4: The beginning of the longest day of life
This epic day started with scaling the Barranco wall. We were comforted by the fact that the Irish had started ahead of us, and were periodically yodeling to the members of their group still at the campsite. The wall entailed an hour and a half of using our hands and feet to scramble up a mostly vertical wall - note Julia did not fall off!! At the top we were rewarded with a beautiful view of Kibo peak, blue skies, and fluffy white clouds below us. Yes, another photoshoot ensued - by this time, Amani was a seasoned veteran with Nicole's camera, after days of "Amani, can you just take this one picture for us? Make sure you get ALL of ________ in the back, and ________ beside us. Asante sana!". We walked down, and then up again, and stopped for lunch at Karanga campsite where Julia and Nicole opted for a little power nap in the sun. For those doing Machame in 7 days, they would stay here for the night. Since we chose the 6 day option ( we are SO intense), our day continued with a 3 hour climb to Barafu hut which sits at 4600m asl (aka BASE CAMP!!). This is the camp from which we would attempt to summit Kili in a few short hours. We arrived at Barafu around 4:30pm, and Amani put a rush on our dinner so that we would have time to nap before our 10:30pm WAKE UP CALL to begin our summit attempt before midnight. Yowza. We had dinner at 6, were in bed by 7. None of us slept much because Allison was too excited, Julia was nervous, and Nicole was wondering how she'd exit her summit outfit and find an appropriate place to pee on Kili. Fortunately, none of us had experienced any serious altitude-related symptoms, so we were feeling confident we could make it up. However, none of us could have known what the next 12 hours would entail...
Day 5: To the SUMMIT!!!
After a little nap and a quick breakfast at 10:30pm, we bundled up in basically everything we brought and departed camp by 11:30. Accompanied by Amani and two of our porters,we set out in the pitch black with only the stars and the light of our headlamps to guide us. We were told that we had a 6 hour climb to the crater rim (5700m asl), followed by another hour hike to the summit. Amani timed this so that we should be hitting the summit right at sunrise - all we had to do was make it! There are no words to describe this night, certainly no pictures to document these hours, and no way to convey how truly physically and mentally grueling it was, but here is our best attempt. In terms of the terrain, the first hour was steep and rocky, followed by 4 hours of freezing cold (think -15) switchbacks, topped off by another steep hour to the crater rim. In terms of us, Julia had a body of lead (most likely due to altitude), which certainly didn't help her hoist herself up the rocks. Nicole was dragging a bum leg up the mountain (she had to literally pick it up, and place it on the next rock), while simultaneously battling nausea and the spins. What was this, a terrible hangover?! Allison was in relatively good shape, until the legitimate fear of losing digits to frostbite set in around crater time. Amani was our hero during this trying time, doing everything from carrying our bags, to opening our water, to putting our gloves back on for us. We're sure he'd have fed us our frozen powerbars if we'd asked.
Things got significantly brighter at the rim, as the sun began to rise, and we realized the hardest part was behind us. We had only an hour of gradual climbing left until we reached the summit and the famous sign that marks it. Julia then exclaimed "this is the best and worst day of my life!!" and we set off for the summit. The walk was actually nice, and we could appreciate the beautiful sunrise to our right and the enormous glaciers to our left. Once again, Amani was right - this was the perfect time to summit. We reached the Uhuru peak sign, which marked 5895m asl, at 6:30am - this marked 7 straight hours of trekking up Kili. We shared a group hug (and perhaps a few tears), snapped some pictures with the famous sign (kudos to Nicole for braving the cold and getting her camera out!), and turned right around to get the hell off that mountain.
Although the weather was warming up, and the scenery was still breathtaking, we were significantly less pumped for the 3 hour descent that faced us. The highlight of the way down was passing our favourite group of Irish who were still on their way up. They weren't their usual boisterous selves, so we decided to chat them up and cheer them on. The man who had dubbed us "the Kenyans" made his way over to us for a high five and thanked us for the encouragement. We were happy we could give them a boost, as they had made all of our previous days brighter. We finally arrived back at base camp around 9am, were handed mango juice (our favourite!), and were instructed to go nap for a whopping 2 hours (a common theme in the last two days). We were awoken at 11am for lunch, before it was time to hike AGAIN for another 3 hours in the afternoon. Sore and exhausted, we arrived at Mweka hut (3100m asl) for our first real nights sleep in 48h.
What a giant day!!!
Day 6: Our crew can sing!
Contrary to what you might think, 6am wake up STILL feels early after a 7pm bedtime. This morning however, we were pulled out of our tent by Amani's promise that the crew would do a song and dance for us post-breakfast. We scarfed down our porridge from our favourite purple pot (in which all good food comes), and ventured outside for the show. And what a show it was! They sang a traditional Tanzanian song, and inserted details about our climb into it (fear not, Julia has a video). Then we began our last hike - two and a half hours downhill to our waiting bus. We picked up our official Kili completion certificates and some souvenir t-shirts and boarded our bus back to Arusha. It was clear that our crew had become more comfortable with us, since our bus ride this time consisted of a song and dance party to everything from Shaggy to Leanne Rimes to local Arushan rap sensations. We returned to the hotel, booked our flights to ZANZIBAR (leaving tomorrow!!), and have never been more ready for a beach vaycay.
All in all it was an unforgettable experience - definitely challenging, but very rewarding. We feel lucky that we were all able to summit and stayed relatively healthy. This is something we will certainly remember forever. Now on to ZANZIBAR!!
What an incredible adventure!! I can't wait to hear details. It all sounds like a once in a life time opportunity, something I must do..sounds tiring though. Way to complete the mission!
ReplyDeleteGREAT POST! It sounded like a CRAZY adventure but one that I'm sure you will remember forever. I'm so glad you girls are safe and sound and I hope you enjoy your ZANZIBAR beach vaycay! lots of love!
ReplyDeleteGirls...I am so very proud of all of you...that adventure sounds like quite the trek! I am sure it will be something you will never forget and cherish forever. I am glad to hear you are all safe and sound and hope you enjoy a well deserved time at the beach!
ReplyDeleteLove,
Mom (Nicole's Mom)